Whats Your Hair Type?

Your hair type is a classification based on your natural hair’s curl pattern, strand thickness, and overall texture. This system, most commonly the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, ranges from straight (Type 1) to wavy (Type 2), curly (Type 3), and coily or kinky (Type 4). Knowing this helps you choose the right products, styling techniques, and care routines for your specific hair, rather than guessing based on what works for someone else.

What Is the Andre Walker Hair Typing System?

The Andre Walker Hair Typing System is the most widely used method for classifying hair. It was popularized by Oprah Winfrey’s hairstylist and breaks hair down into four main types with subcategories. The system focuses on the shape of the hair follicle, which determines the curl pattern.

Type 1 is straight hair. It has no natural curl and tends to be oily because sebum travels easily down the hair shaft. Type 2 is wavy hair, which forms an “S” shape and lies somewhere between straight and curly. It often has more volume at the roots and wave toward the ends.

Type 3 is curly hair. It forms defined ringlets or corkscrews and ranges from loose loops to tight curls. Type 4 is coily or kinky hair. It has a tight zigzag pattern and is the most fragile because the natural oils struggle to travel down the hair shaft. Each type has three subcategories: A, B, and C, which describe the diameter of the curl or wave.

How Do You Determine Your Own Hair Type?

Start with clean, product-free hair. Shampoo and condition as usual, then let your hair air dry completely without any brushing, styling products, or manipulation. This is the only way to see your natural pattern. Towel drying or scrunching can change the appearance of your curls.

Look at your hair in good lighting. Straight hair lies flat from root to tip with no bend. Wavy hair forms a loose “S” shape. Curly hair forms spirals or ringlets. Coily hair forms tight zigzags that may look like springs or coils. If your hair has multiple patterns — for example, straight at the roots and wavy at the ends — you likely have the looser pattern overall.

You can also check your strand thickness. Take a single hair and roll it between your fingers. If you can barely feel it, it is fine. If it feels like a thread, it is medium. If it feels like a piece of sewing thread or thicker, it is coarse. This is part of your hair type too, though the curl pattern is the main focus of the system.

What Do the Subcategories A, B, and C Mean?

The subcategories describe the diameter or tightness of the curl within each main type. They help narrow down your hair type further. Type 1 hair does not have subcategories — it is simply straight.

For Type 2 wavy hair: 2A is a very loose, barely-there wave. 2B has more defined waves that start mid-length. 2C has thick, coarse waves that are closer to curls. For Type 3 curly hair: 3A has loose, large ringlets. 3B has tighter, springy corkscrews. 3C has tight curls that are densely packed.

For Type 4 coily hair: 4A has defined, springy coils that are about the size of a crochet needle. 4B has a less defined, zigzag pattern with less visible curl definition. 4C has the tightest coils with almost no defined curl pattern — the hair often shrinks significantly when dry.

One clarification: Many people have more than one curl pattern on their head. This is normal. You might be 3A at the nape of your neck and 2C at the crown. In that case, go with the pattern that covers most of your head, or treat different sections based on their needs.

How Does Hair Type Affect Product Choice and Care?

Your hair type directly influences how often you should wash, what ingredients your hair needs, and how you should handle it. Straight and wavy hair tends to get oily faster. The sebum from your scalp travels down the hair shaft easily. These types often need more frequent washing and lightweight products that do not weigh hair down.

Curly and coily hair is naturally drier. The twists and turns in the hair shaft make it harder for natural oils to travel from scalp to ends. These types benefit from richer conditioners, leave-in products, and less frequent washing. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends that people with curly or coily hair wash no more than once a week to avoid stripping moisture.

Hair type also affects how you detangle. Straight and wavy hair can usually be brushed when dry. Curly and coily hair should only be detangled when wet with conditioner to prevent breakage. Using a wide-tooth comb starting from the ends and working upward is the standard recommendation from dermatologists.

Here is a quick comparison of general care needs:

Common Misconceptions About Hair Typing

The biggest misconception is that your hair type is fixed forever. Hair texture can change due to hormones, aging, medication, and even climate. Pregnancy and menopause are two common times when women notice their curl pattern shifting. This is normal and does not mean you were wrong about your type before.

Another myth is that certain hair types are “better” or “worse” than others. Straight hair is not easier to manage — it just has different challenges like oiliness and lack of volume. Coily hair is not harder to manage — it just needs different techniques and products. No type is inherently superior.

Some people also believe that hair typing tells you exactly which products to buy. It is a starting point, not a prescription. Two people with 3B curls may have completely different porosity levels, density, and scalp conditions. Product selection still requires some trial and error.

Finally, the Andre Walker system is not the only one. Some stylists and brands use the LOIS system, which classifies hair by curl pattern and strand diameter separately. Others use the FIA system, which looks at feel, shine, and volume. The Walker system is the most common, but not the only valid one.

Does Hair Type Change Over Time or With Treatments?

Yes, hair type can change. Hormonal shifts are the most common cause. Many women report their hair getting curlier during pregnancy or straighter after menopause. Thyroid conditions and other hormonal disorders can also alter curl patterns. These changes are usually gradual.

Chemical treatments like relaxers, perms, and keratin treatments temporarily change your hair type. Relaxers break the protein bonds in the hair to straighten it. Perms do the opposite by creating new bonds to form curls. These changes last until the treated hair grows out or is cut off. They do not change your natural hair type permanently.

Heat styling can also make your hair appear straighter, but it does not change your true hair type. Frequent use of flat irons or blow dryers can cause heat damage, which may make curly or coily hair appear straighter or more frizzy. This is damage, not a natural change in hair type.

One non-obvious point: Your hair at the nape of your neck may be a different type than the hair at your crown. This is completely normal. The hair on different parts of your scalp can have different follicle shapes. If you color your hair or use heat, the most damaged areas may also appear to have a different texture.

Is Hair Typing Scientifically Accurate?

The Andre Walker system is not a scientific classification. It was created by a hairstylist based on observation, not peer-reviewed research. It is useful as a general guide, but it has limitations. It does not account for porosity, density, or elasticity, which are equally important for hair care.

Research published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology has noted that hair typing systems are subjective. Different people may classify the same hair differently. The system also does not account for the fact that many people have multiple curl patterns on one head.

That said, the system is still the most practical tool available for general guidance. It helps people understand why their hair behaves the way it does and gives them a starting point for product selection. Just do not treat it as a precise science. Use it as a rough guide, and pay more attention to how your hair actually responds to products.