Leakage current is the small amount of current that flows where it should not — through insulation, across a printed circuit board surface, or to earth through a path you did not design. You stop it by finding where the current is escaping, then fixing that path: cleaning and drying contaminated boards, repairing damaged insulation, adding proper grounding and residual current protection, and separating sensitive signal traces from noise sources. The fix depends entirely on whether the leakage is in building wiring, in a device’s power supply, or across a PCB.
What Is Leakage Current, Exactly?
Leakage current is any current that takes an unintended path. In electrical terms, it is current flowing through insulation, surface contamination, or parasitic capacitance rather than through the load you meant to power.
In AC building wiring, a small leakage current to earth is normal. Electronic devices with filters and switch-mode power supplies bleed a tiny amount of current to ground by design. Standards bodies set limits for this — typically a few milliamps for household equipment — because the concern is not the current itself but what happens when it rises or when a person becomes part of the path.
On a printed circuit board, leakage is different. It is unwanted current between traces, across the board surface, or through the substrate. This type of leakage usually shows up as erratic behavior, not as a shock hazard.
The distinction matters. Building wiring leakage is a safety problem. PCB leakage is usually a performance and reliability problem. The tools and fixes are not the same.
What Causes Leakage Current In Wiring And PCBs?
Leakage has a small number of root causes, and almost every real case traces back to one of them.
In wiring, the most common causes are:
- Damaged or aged insulation that has cracked, hardened, or been nicked
- Moisture inside junction boxes, conduit, or cable runs
- Contamination — dust, salt, or conductive residue on surfaces
- Poor or corroded connections that create unintended paths
- Long cable runs where capacitive coupling to earth increases
On PCBs, the causes are similar but at a much smaller scale:
- Flux residue left after soldering, which can attract moisture and become slightly conductive
- Dust combined with humidity forming a conductive film across the board
- Tin whiskers or solder splatter bridging traces
- Conductive anodic filament formation — a growth inside the board material itself
- Damaged solder mask exposing copper
- Design issues like traces routed too close together or inadequate creepage distance
One point that surprises people: a board can look perfectly clean and still leak. Flux residue and humidity can create a leakage path that is invisible to the eye. This is why cleaning alone sometimes does not fix the problem — you have to clean and then dry, and sometimes you have to measure to confirm the path is gone.
How To Stop Leakage Current In Wiring And PCBs
The method depends on which system you are dealing with. Start by identifying where the leakage is, because the fix for a wet junction box is not the fix for a contaminated circuit board.
For building and appliance wiring
De-energize the circuit before touching anything. This is not optional.
Once power is off, work through the likely causes:
- Dry the system. Moisture is the single most common cause of new leakage. Find where water is entering and stop it, then dry the affected area completely before restoring power.
- Clean contaminated surfaces. Dust, salt spray, and residue create conductive paths. Clean and dry thoroughly.
- Inspect insulation. Look for cracks, heat damage, or abrasion. Replace any cable with damaged insulation rather than wrapping it.
- Check connections. Tighten and clean terminals. Corrosion at a connection point can create a partial path to earth.
- Verify grounding. A proper earth connection gives leakage current a safe path and allows protective devices to work. A missing or high-resistance ground is a serious hazard.
- Use residual current protection. An RCD (called a GFCI in US homes) detects small imbalances between live and neutral and disconnects the circuit. This is the single most effective protective measure against dangerous leakage. It does not stop leakage — it limits how long the leakage can flow and how much harm it can do.
If leakage persists after these steps, the problem is likely inside a device or in the fixed wiring itself, and a qualified electrician should trace it.
For printed circuit boards
PCB leakage is usually diagnosed by measurement, not by eye.
- Clean the board properly. Use an appropriate flux cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, then dry it fully. Cleaning without drying can make things worse.
- Bake out moisture. Boards that have absorbed humidity can be dried at low temperature. This is common practice in electronics repair, though the correct temperature and duration depend on the board and components — follow the manufacturer’s guidance rather than guessing.
- Inspect under magnification. Look for solder bridges, whiskers, and residue between traces.
- Check creepage and clearance. If traces carrying different voltages run too close together, leakage and arcing become more likely. This is a design issue that cleaning cannot fix.
- Apply conformal coating. A protective coating seals the board surface against moisture and contamination. This is widely used in industry, though it must be applied to a clean, dry board to be effective.
- Separate noisy and sensitive circuits. Leakage and coupling between a switching supply and a sensitive analog trace is a layout problem. Increasing spacing and adding ground planes reduces it.
How Do You Measure Leakage Current?
You cannot fix what you cannot measure. Leakage current is measured with a clamp meter or a dedicated leakage tester that can read small currents.
For AC wiring, a leakage clamp meter placed around the live and neutral conductors together reads the imbalance — which is the leakage to earth. For a single circuit, this gives a direct reading.
For PCBs, measurement is more involved. Technicians often measure resistance between adjacent traces or between a trace and ground, sometimes at elevated humidity, because leakage that does not appear in dry air can appear once moisture is present.
One practical caution: standard multimeters are not designed to measure very small leakage currents accurately. A reading that looks like zero on a basic meter may not be zero at all. If precision matters, use equipment rated for the range you are measuring.
When Is Leakage Current Dangerous?
Leakage becomes dangerous when it flows through a person, when it is large enough to cause overheating or fire, or when it trips protective devices repeatedly.
The threshold for harm depends on the path and duration. Current passing through the chest — for example, hand to hand or hand to foot — is far more dangerous than current passing through a finger. This is why protective devices are designed to disconnect quickly rather than to tolerate a sustained leakage.
Two situations deserve particular caution:
- Repeated RCD or GFCI trips. These are not a nuisance to be bypassed. They indicate a real leakage path. Never disable a protective device to stop it tripping.
- Warm or discolored wiring, outlets, or boards. This suggests leakage or a fault is generating heat. Stop using the circuit and have it inspected.
If you are unsure whether a leakage situation is dangerous, treat it as dangerous until a qualified person confirms otherwise.
Can Leakage Current Be Prevented?
Most leakage is preventable, and prevention is far easier than diagnosis.
For wiring, the main measures are keeping moisture out, maintaining insulation, ensuring proper grounding, and installing residual current protection. Regular inspection catches problems before they become hazards.
For PCBs, prevention starts at design: adequate spacing between traces, proper creepage distances, and ground planes that control where current flows. At assembly, it means cleaning flux residue thoroughly and drying boards before coating. In use, it means protecting boards from moisture and contamination, especially in humid or outdoor environments.
No method eliminates leakage entirely. Small leakage currents are a normal part of electrical and electronic systems. The goal is to keep them within safe limits and to have protection in place when they are not.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a normal leakage current?
For household equipment, leakage current to earth is typically limited to a few milliamps by safety standards. Exact limits depend on the device class and the standard that applies to it.
Does a GFCI or RCD stop leakage current?
No. It does not stop leakage — it detects the imbalance caused by leakage and disconnects the circuit quickly to prevent harm. The leakage path still needs to be found and fixed.
Can I fix PCB leakage by cleaning the board?
Sometimes. Cleaning removes flux residue and contamination, which are common causes. If the leakage comes from damage inside the board material or from a design issue, cleaning will not fix it.
Is leakage current the same as a short circuit?
No. A short circuit is a direct, low-resistance connection that allows large current to flow. Leakage is a small current through an unintended but higher-resistance path.

