How To Make Your Own Well Types Pumps Testing? Key Facts

If you own a home with a private well, knowing how to understand well types, choose the right pump, and test your water is essential for safe drinking water. But making your own well usually means hiring a licensed driller, not digging it yourself. The key facts are: there are three main well types (dug, driven, drilled). Pumps fall into two categories (submersible and jet). And water testing should check for bacteria, nitrates, and pH at least once a year. DIY drilling is risky and often illegal without permits. Focus on testing and pump maintenance instead.

What are the main types of wells for home use?

Most private wells in the United States fall into one of three categories. Dug wells are shallow, typically less than 30 feet deep, and lined with stone or concrete. They are vulnerable to surface contamination and are rarely built today for new homes. Driven wells are assembled by driving a pipe into the ground, reaching depths of 30 to 50 feet. They work best in sandy soil but can also be contaminated easily.

Drilled wells are the most common modern type. A drilling machine bores into the ground, often reaching depths of 100 to 400 feet or more. They are cased with steel or plastic pipe and sealed to keep surface water out. Drilled wells provide the safest and most reliable water supply. If you are considering a new well, a drilled well is almost always the right choice. Professional drillers follow state regulations for depth, casing, and grouting to protect your water.

How do you choose the right pump for your well?

The pump you need depends on your well depth, water level, and flow rate. There are two main types for home wells. Submersible pumps sit inside the well, underwater, and push water up to the surface. They are efficient, quiet, and work well for deep wells over 100 feet. Jet pumps sit above ground and use suction to pull water up. They work only for shallow wells less than about 25 feet. Deep well jet pumps with a separate ejector can reach up to about 100 feet but are less efficient than submersible pumps.

For most modern drilled wells, a submersible pump is standard. To select the right pump, you need to know your well’s static water level and the flow rate in gallons per minute. A well professional should measure these. Pump size is measured in horsepower. Common home wells use ½ to 1½ horsepower pumps. Buying a pump that is too large can damage the well or cause short cycling. Always have a pump installed by a licensed contractor to ensure proper sizing and wiring.

How do you test well water yourself?

Homeowners can collect water samples and send them to a certified lab, or use at-home test kits for basic screening. For accurate results, follow proper collection steps. Use a sterile container provided by the lab. Run the water for 2 to 3 minutes first, then fill the container without letting the spout touch the bottle. Keep the sample cool and deliver it to the lab within 24 hours.

At-home kits can test for pH, hardness, iron, and nitrate levels. These give you a rough idea but are not as reliable as lab testing. The EPA recommends testing for total coliform bacteria and nitrate at least once a year. Coliform bacteria should be absent. The nitrate limit for drinking water is 10 mg/L. Levels above that are dangerous, especially for infants. Also test for pH, which should be between 6.5 and 8.5. If your pH is low, water can corrode pipes and leach metals. High pH can cause scale and soap scum.

Test more often if you notice changes in taste, color, or odor, or after flooding, nearby construction, or if someone in your household has recurring gastrointestinal illness. Some contaminants, like radon or arsenic, are region-specific. Check with your local health department for recommended tests in your area.

What are the health risks of untreated well water?

Private well water is not regulated by the EPA. That means you are responsible for ensuring its safety. The most common health risks come from bacterial contamination. Coliform bacteria are a sign that surface water or sewage may have entered the well. If E. coli is found, the water is unsafe to drink without boiling or treatment.

Nitrate contamination is another serious concern. Nitrates come from fertilizer, septic systems, and animal waste. High nitrate levels can interfere with the blood’s ability to carry oxygen in infants under six months, a condition called methemoglobinemia or “blue baby syndrome.” The EPA sets the maximum contaminant level at 10 mg/L. Levels above that require immediate action, such as switching to bottled water or installing a treatment system.

Other contaminants include arsenic, lead, radon, and volatile organic compounds. Arsenic occurs naturally in some bedrock and can cause long-term health problems including cancer. Lead can leach from old plumbing. Radon gas can enter well water and then be released into indoor air. Testing for these substances is not routine but may be recommended based on your location. The CDC provides state-specific well testing guidelines.

Can you drill a well yourself?

Technically, it is possible to drill a shallow well yourself using a hand auger or a small powered drill rig. However, doing so is not recommended for almost anyone. Most states require permits and licensed drillers for any new well. Unlicensed drilling can contaminate groundwater and spread pollutants. A shallow, improperly sealed well can draw in bacteria and chemicals from the surface, putting your family at risk.

Even if you successfully drill a well, you still need to test the water, install a proper pump, and ensure the electrical and plumbing work meets code. The cost of hiring a professional driller (typically $3,000 to $10,000) covers safety, reliability, and legal compliance. If you already have an old dug or driven well, consider abandoning it and drilling a new, deeper well. Do not attempt to deepen or modify an existing well without professional help.

If you are determined to make your own well equipment, focus instead on building a rain harvesting system or a shallow hand-pump well for irrigation only. Never use that water for drinking, cooking, or bathing without extensive treatment.

How often should you service your well pump and system?

Annual checks by a certified well contractor can prevent costly breakdowns and extend the life of your pump. They should inspect the pressure tank, check the pump motor, and test the water levels. You can do some maintenance yourself: keep the well cap sealed, slope the ground away from the wellhead, and never store chemicals near it. Replace the filter in your water treatment system according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Signs that your pump may need repair include low water pressure, sputtering faucets, unusually high electric bills, or water that looks or smells different. If your pump runs constantly or cycles on and off rapidly, shut it off and call a professional. Running a pump dry can damage it permanently. Most well pumps last 8 to 15 years with proper maintenance.