Written By Teresa Howell |

The year: 1908, or thereabouts. The place: Watauga, a soon-to-be born town at the end of the railroad line in South Dakota. The actors: Fred, John and Art Nehl, my great grandfather and his brothers. The task before them: sow the garden they’d tilled out of virgin sod before their wives arrived on the train from Iowa.

Unfortunately, the Nehl boys got into a jug of whiskey. They didn’t want to let work interfere with the fun, so they put all the seeds their wives had sent them in a broadcast seeder, seeded the patch, raked it a bit, and then broke out the second jug.

That garden was the best they ever grew.

Fast forward sixty years. Not far from that original patch, my parents were working in their own garden. My father, whose true passion was his team of Shetland ponies, had spent the past winter fabricating a cultivator he could use with his team. He’d instructed my mother as to the precise width of the rows, and thought he could cut a day’s worth of weeding down to an hour.

My parents still haven’t determined whether my mother’s crooked rows or my father’s crooked charioteering caused the resulting mayhem, but when he finished cultivating, only half the plants were standing.

The moral of these two stories, taken together:  tidy rows are out, mixed beds are in.

Tidy rows have only been “in” for a short while, historically speaking. When people started farming with machines, they soon learned machines worked best with rows of a single type of crop. The new method of farming was so efficient the model was soon applied in the vegetable patch.

Gardening in rows does have its advantages. Harvesting is easier. You want peas? Go to the pea patch. No need to stumble over the whole garden looking for supper.

My great grandfather’s scatter-shot approach has its benefits as well. It makes more efficient use of space. By the time early crops like lettuce and radishes are done, slower maturing beets and tomatoes need the room. Because plants are closer together, weeds don’t have as much room to grow.  Plants also shade the soil, so less water evaporates.

Some experts claim mixed bed plantings can even confuse pests, so that the potato bugs can’t find the potatoes. Add a few marigolds, and some host plants for beneficial insects, and the bugs are further confused.

However, you’ll probably want a better approach to your mixed beds than “drink a quart of whiskey.” You’ll have to plan the layout of the beds, and–here’s the hard part–construct them. Experts say you should make your beds no wider than four feet, so that you can easily reach the middle of the bed. You’ll need clearly defined paths so people don’t compact the soil by walking where they shouldn’t. The soil itself will need the same amendments that any garden needs.

You’ll also need to decide which crops you’ll plant together. One source claims that you should divide crops up by family. Related plants often have the same diseases, and grouping them allows you to rotate crops more efficiently. Once you have your plant “clans” established in their own bit of turf, you can add “friends” of the family. These are plants that deter pests or help the family out in some way. If you are interested, there are books available about companion planting.

Another method of planning is to let tradition be your guide. Southwestern Indians typically planted corn, squash and beans, together. The “three sisters,” as they were called, helped each other out. Beans provided nitrogen for the heavy-feeding corn, and the corn supported the climbing beans. Squash formed a living mulch, preserving water and shading the soil.

The whiskey you’ll have to get on your own, but, you’ll find valuable information at winngarden.org.

When Teresa Howell isn’t finding new methods of planting, she teaches English at Great Basin College.

Written By Teresa Howell |

These late spring days, my sister Beth and I often have coffee on the side porch by my flower garden. It usually smells fresh this time of year.

“It’s always windy around your place,” Beth commented. “You should do something about it. It’s not good for the plants.”

“I don’t like to take antacids. Besides, it’s a natural process, and it’s simply hyperbole that it can kill plants or strip paint or any of that other stuff.”

Beth looked puzzled. “It must be blowing twenty miles an hour. See those branches whipping? You know that’s not good for your garden.”

Oh.

She’s right about the wind at my house. She lives in town, where buildings and fences shield plants from the brunt of the wind. But I live out in sagebrush suburbia, where houses are separated by several hundred feet, and the neighbors’ fences and trees aren’t close enough to do much but funnel the wind my direction.

That wind can do considerable damage. A study at the Panhandle Agricultural Experiment Station in Oklahoma found average decrease in yield of grain crops exposed to strong winds to be almost fifteen percent. The study noted that the damage wasn’t caused by a lack of water (although wind does cause considerable moisture loss), but probably from leaf destruction and energy going to tissue repair rather than production.

The same study suggests that wind can cause deformed plants, and can delay crop maturity. This last is no small factor in the short growing season here in the high desert.

In our dry conditions, the wind-whipped sand that strips paint off your house won’t do your cucumbers any favors either. It abrades the skin of plants, allowing even more moisture to evaporate. If the wind does stop blowing, dust on the plants interferes with respiration and photosynthesis.

Beth is right. My plants need protection.

A first line of defense is proper choice of garden location. My worst winds come from the south, so the north sides of buildings get some protection. Unfortunately, most of my sensitive plants are on the south side of the house.

As a more permanent solution, I’ve planted some shrubs and trees on the south and west sides of my garden. I like a more natural look, so I staggered them in a seemingly random pattern, being careful to locate trees with thirsty roots further back. They won’t be large enough to be of much use for a few years, and in the interim, other options are available, depending upon budget and aesthetics.

The cheapest solution is to use one plant to shelter another. Last year, I planted corn in a wide arc around the garden. Once it was high enough, it was a creditable windbreak. The year before, I used sunflowers. However, the need to rotate crops limits those options. Garden design is a bit like the logic puzzle where you have a fox, a chicken, and a bag of grain to row across a river, and you can only take one at a time.

The budget vs. aesthetics battle heats up when it comes to a fence. I’d love a dry-stacked stone wall around my garden. There are more than plenty of rocks in the country, but my back won’t take the DIY route, and my budget won’t take the contractor route.

A screen made of bamboo or willow would be quite a bit less expensive, and still attractive. Or I could build a rail fence, and cover it with grapevines.

Out here in sagebrush suburbia, I can get away with going very low budget, with a resulting dip in snob appeal. I can use snow fence, or even anchor a few wooden pallets with steel posts.

Tacky? Maybe. But in any case, it will protect my garden. And if I’m lucky, it will leave just enough of a breeze to waft away any unintentional odors.

References:

1. http://digital.library.okstate.edu/oas/oas_pdf/v09/p24_27.pdf

2. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/vpm/vpmjan97.pdf

3. http://www.wfpn.net/leaflet_02_planning.html

When Teresa Howell isn’t being windy, she teaches English at Great Basin College in Winnemucca, NV.

Family dynamics never change. For instance, when I was a senior in high school and my baby sister Jessie was in kindergarten, I was better at reading and math than she was–or at least that’s the way I remember it. Reports from some of our siblings conflict.

Now she’s in her early forties, and I’m in my fi-cough-ies, I naturally expect that I’m a better gardener. So when she put in a garden at her new home in Sidney, Montana, I predicted crop failure.

I had two things going for me in the world of competitive gardening. First, twelve years more experience. Second, and I was counting on this, Sidney is only about a hundred miles from the Canadian border. Gardening maps put Sidney in zone three, where I always thought only reindeer moss and the hardiest of willows grew. My Winnemucca garden is in zone six, which all the experts agree is gardening nirvana.

Imagine my surprise when Jessie started complaining of tomato-canning burnout last August, while I was still waiting for enough tomatoes to build a decent salad. Then I started investigating.

Turns out that those colorful zone maps only measure one thing–the coldest temperature an area is likely to receive. It’s useful information if you’re trying to decide whether a tree or perennial is will winter-kill in your area.

But most vegetables don’t go in the garden until at least May. Even in Sidney, the forty below temperatures are a painful but receding memory. That’s when other climate factors come in to play.

Factors like the number of frost-free days. In Sidney, they have 111 of them, on average.  Here in Winnemucca, we get from 85 to 110 days between the last frost of spring and the first of fall. Our altitude encourages late spring frosts. It also encourages cool nights and hot days, temperature extremes that many vegetables don’t appreciate.

On the plus side, I’ve found that some cool-season crops, like lettuces, peas and fava beans, tolerate our heat better than I expected, probably because they get to cool off during the night. Unfortunately, those crops don’t carry the bragging rights of tomatoes and melons.

My sister’s zone three garden has a couple other unexpected pluses. Around the summer solstice, Jessie gets a few minutes shy of an hour more daylight every day than I do. The difference in day length is less marked earlier or later in the season, but still, that’s a lot of extra photosynthesis.

Sidney is west of the Missouri River, which means gardeners should expect drought. But Jessie gets a whopping 14.2 inches of precipitation to Winnemucca’s 8.4 inches. In keeping with the “it’s not how much, but when” theme, Sidney a good share of its moisture in June and July, when the only natural precipitation my garden usually sees is the sweat that drips off my brow. More precipitation usually means better soil, because salt and alkalinity wash out, and comparatively luxuriant vegetation means more naturally-occurring organic matter in the soil.

Fortunately, we can compensate for some of these conditions. We can irrigate and add organic material. We can’t do much about that extra summer daylight (I’ll spot you that one, Jessie), but we can offer shade in the extreme heat and frost protection in the early spring and later fall.

There are a variety of hoop houses, floating row covers and greenhouses for frost protection, although they come at some expense. There are also options for individual plants.  Wax paper hot caps are inexpensive, although they won’t protect against a hard freeze. The French use elegant cloches, often made of glass.

This year I plan to try the proverbial wall-o-water, a ring of connected plastic tubes that you fill with water. These tubes surround your tomato; the water absorbs heat during the day and releases it during the night.

So watch out this year, Jessie! Me and my wall-o-waters are going to kick your little tomato-canning tootie!

References:

1. http://www.unce.unr.edu/publications/files/ho/2010/fs1015.pdf

2. http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/aboutastronomy.html

3. http://usclimatedata.com

When Teresa Howell isn’t taunting her siblings, she teaches English at Great Basin College in Winnemucca, NV.

Dirt doesn’t get a whole lot of respect in our modern industrialized culture, which is unfortunate indeed. Soil is the great transmuter; everything that dies and decomposes into it becomes new life, nourishing every species in our food chain in turn. Healthy soil contains a rich array of vitamins and minerals, and can sustain a broad population of life forms. Greater nutrient content in the soil means greater bio-diversity of plants, making healthy food available to more insects and animals, including humans. When soil quality is poor, there are less of the necessary organisms that sustain life for the plants and animals that depend on healthy soil. Depleted soil is not able to hold water, and in extreme cases, the loss of healthy top soil contributed to land-slides, dust bowls, higher green house gas emissions and other environmental disasters. Soil that is contaminated with chemical fertilizers and pesticides carry those poisons into our ground water and rivers, affecting the ecology of habitats far removed.

What we use in our gardens has consequences that reach far beyond the boundaries of our back fence. While corporate interests continue to market synthetic nitrogen fertilizers as efficient and necessary for maximizing garden production, as we will see below, there are plenty of organic alternatives that offer the benefits of soil fertility with the added bonus of improving the health of the entire ecosystem, instead of damaging it for generations to come.

Inorganic fertilizers are produced in ways that can only be summed up as unsustainable. Minerals such as potassium and phosphorus are mined, and are not sourced from renewable resources. The mining of these minerals in and of itself is damaging the environment from which they have been extracted. Artificial nitrogen fertilizers are typically synthesized using fossil fuels such as natural gas or coal, which are limited resources as well.

Some of the most devastating effects of inorganic fertilizers can be witnessed along the gulf coast in the United States. Fertilizer run-off from the corn-belt is the primary cause of depletion of oxygen in many parts of the ocean, resulting in loss of oceanic fauna; these areas are known as “dead zones” and are increasing at an alarming rate. About HALF of all the lakes in the United States are now eutrophic, meaning there is an overgrowth of algae, and a lack of necessary oxygen for fish and other species that depend on healthy water. Poisonous toxins from inorganic fertilizer also leech into the ground water, which is shown to cause what is referred to as “blue baby syndrome” (acquired methemoglobinemia) which can lead to coma and death in newborns whose mothers have been exposed to poisoned ground water.

The radioactive element Uranium is another example of a contaminant often found in high phosphate fertilizers, in addition to heavy metals such as cadmium.  Highly radioactive polonium-210 has been traced to phosphate fertilizers as well. Toxic materials such as these are absorbed by the roots of the plants and transferred to those who eat them.

Now that we have outlined some of the many frightening consequences of using synthetic fertilizers, it is time for some good news. As usual, mother-nature is smarter than we are and, she continues to provide us with simple, yet highly effective alternatives. Many organic soil amendments have even been shown to help reverse some of the damage caused by industrial agriculture. For instance, red worms and their castings (aka worm poop), and tea from these castings, have been shown not only to boost soil fertility, but also to break down and neutralize toxic materials in the soil, including heavy metals and radioactive elements!

One can create a simple organic fertilizer by soaking dried nettle in a covered bucket of water for a few weeks. It will not smell so good, but it will boost crop yields. Nettle tea is known to make plants less susceptible to pests and diseases, reducing the need for pesticides.

Composting is another easy way to boost soil fertility and reduce the amount of garbage your household produces. Start your compost pile by combing fruit and vegetable cuttings, eggs shells, coffee grounds, garden clippings, animal manure and other organic materials. Meat, dairy and human waste (or from domestic cats and dogs) should not be added. This compost pile should be turned over regularly, to help the materials break down. As these materials decompose, they become nutrient rich soil.

Soil is the foundation and medium for supporting life on this earth, it is the essence of earth itself. If we are kind to it, it will be kind to us. Choosing organic fertilizers benefits countless life forms, humans included. Healthy soil equals a healthy world.

References:

1. Hemenway, Toby. Gaia’s Garden: A guide to home scale permaculture, 2nd Edition. Chelsea Green Publishing. White River Junction, 2009.

2. Coleman, Eliot. The New Organic Grower, 2nd Edition. Chelsea Green Publishing. White River Junction, 1995.

3. www.wikipedia.org/nitrogenfertilizer

4. http://www.magicwiggler.com/Compare.html

Trifolium pretense, or Red Clover, is a member of the legume family and a cousin to the sweet pea. The small, red and pink flowers bloom up from the famous round leaves, which grow in clusters of three and have long been prized as a symbol of good luck. This perennial plant is native to Europe, Western Asia and northwest Africa. Today, it grows all over the world. In our modern western times, clover is sometimes considered a common weed that needs to be sprayed with poison pesticides in order to maintain a lawn of green. It is truly a shame and a waste when this occurs, for not only is the plant attractive, it serves many useful purposes in both garden and medicine chest, and is delicious besides.

In the garden, clover is an excellent green manure crop. Planting clover in a field a year before planting other garden vegetables is an inexpensive, environmentally sound source of nitrogen. There is no need to supplement with artificial fertilizers, and clover provides the added benefit of its deep rooted plants breaking up compacted subsoil. Clover can also be “under-sown” or planted to surround other fruit and vegetable crops, such as tomatoes, melons or squash. Plant the clover in the early spring, and once the fruits and vegetables have been harvested, the clover may be turned over into the soil, to break down over the winter, blessing you with a fertile garden bed the following spring.

Red clover blossoms may be dried and used in a pleasant tasting tea. It is often used in combination with other herbs to nourish pregnant and breast feeding women, as well as to treat skin conditions, coughs and blood infections. Red Clover gently purifies the blood, helping to eliminate heavy metals and other environmental contaminants, while nourishing the body with its abundance of trace minerals. It is also mildly antispasmodic, which means it can ease nervous excitability, twitching and spasm. It is gentle enough to give to children who have recurring respiratory problems, such as colds, hay fever, asthma, ear infections or congestion.

Below is a recipe for a simple herbal tea, suitable for pregnant women and their families. The tea may be used daily throughout pregnancy and into the postpartum period to promote milk production. The high mineral content makes this an excellent nutritive herbal tea that is beneficial for most individuals.

Nourishment Tea –

from “Naturally Healthy Babies and Children”

1 ounce red raspberry leaves

1 ounce dried nettle

1 ounce dried oatstraw

1/2 ounce dried alfalfa

12 ounce red clover blossoms

1/4-1/2 ounce dried spearmint leaves

1/4 ounce rose hips

1 quart boiling water

Mix all of the herbs and store away from heat and sunlight in a glass jar. Put a handful of the mixture into a tea pot (or vessel that can be covered with a lid), add the boiling water, cover and steep for one hour, for maximum benefit. Tea may be steeped for less time, if the flavor is experienced as too strong after a long steep. Add honey and lemon to taste if desired.

References:

1. Romm, Aviva Jill. “Naturally Healthy Babies and Children.” Celestial Arts. Berkely, 2003.

2. Coleman, Eliot. “The New Organic Grower, 2nd Edition.” Chelsea Green Publishing. White River Junction, 1995.

3. Emery, Carla. “The Encyclopedia of Country Living, 9th Edition.” Sasquatch Books. Seattle, 2003.

Spring is in full bloom and with it comes the desire for new life in our landscapes. A nicely landscaped yard offers many benefits to a home owner. Studies show that plants can reduce stress, increase property values, reduce glare and noise pollution, and save energy. These benefits, however, can only be realized when the proper plants are chosen for the planting space. Plants are living organisms and thus have specific requirements that are essential in order for them to be healthy and thrive, not just survive, in our landscapes. In order for plants to reach their full potential, careful planning should go into the selection of the right plant for the garden.

Whether homeowners have a newly constructed home and are in need of full landscaping or they just want to spruce things up, there are things to consider before choosing the right landscape plants. The most important consideration when choosing landscape plants is whether the plants are adapted to the site. Plants that looked great in a Southern California landscape are unlikely to do well in Northern California or Nevada landscapes; the winter temperatures here are much colder. To know what plants grow well in a particular region, homeowners should look up the Hardiness Rating for the plant. Local nurseries are a great resource for this information, which can often be found on the plant label. Sunset Garden Book is also a great resource.

Another factor to consider when selecting plants for a landscape is what exposure the plants will be planted in. South facing slopes receive much more sun than North facing and generally are not good locations for shade loving plants or for broad leaved evergreens, which tend to sunburn easily. Areas that receive a lot of wind are not good locations for delicate plants or plants with large leaves that can tear in the wind.

The soil the plants will be growing in is a huge consideration. For perennials and some shrubs it is easy to amend the native soil or put in raised mounds of quality imported soil, but for trees this is rarely practical. If a tree is chosen that is native to the east coast, where humidity is high and soils are rich in organic matter with excellent drainage, then the likelihood of that tree growing well in low humidity and compacted clay soils is low.

Finally, what is the water requirement for the plant being chosen and is it similar to the other plants in that area of the landscape? Looking at the native habitat for plants can give a homeowner an idea of where they would grow best. Planting a riparian species such as aspen or birch, which require a large amount of water, into a drought tolerant garden is a recipe for failure.
The benefits of healthy landscapes are many. Homeowners should pay attention to the plant’s needs, to insure healthy plants that thrive and serve the function they were chosen for.

References:
www.treesaregood.com/treecare/tree_benefits.aspx
Sunset Western Garden Book. Copyright 1995, Sunset Publishing Corporation, Menlo Park, CA. Sixth edition.

For more info, contact Leslie Lyles or Holly Bromley, Horticultural Consultants at (775) 849-1215.

by Holly Bromley, BS |

Health conscious individuals are usually aware of our connection with plants and how vital they are to our existence. An environmentally healthy earth influences the quality of the food we eat, which also directly impacts our health. The future of our planet depends upon the health of the planet’s forests. But besides the great forests and food producing farmlands there is another area where plants grow that affect our health directly…the plants growing around our homes.  

The role that our landscape plants play in our lives is often quite overlooked. The trees, shrubs, grasses and flowers that grow right outside our doors have far more value in our lives than most people give them credit for. Most everyone appreciates the beauty of a nicely planted and maintained yard, but the benefits go far beyond the aesthetic value of a nice landscape.  

Landscape plantings significantly influence our lives in economic, physical, psychological and social ways. Here are but a few ways we benefit:

The first and most obvious are shade trees. A well placed shade tree reduces energy consumption by reducing the need for air conditioning in our homes. Trees also diminish the amount of reflective heat from solar rays bouncing off city hardscapes such as roadways, buildings and walkways thus mitigating the heat island effect found in cities.  Trees and shrubs can also provide windbreaks and play a significant role in filtering chemical and particulate pollution from our air. They also provide privacy screens and buffer our homes from the noise and light pollution of nearby traffic and commerce.

Landscape plantings have been shown to provide enormous benefits to our emotional wellbeing. Lush, green foliage evokes calmness and relaxation among prison inmates and can also reduce stress and anxiety in employees who work indoors. Convalescing patients also are shown to recover quicker, with reduced need for pain medications when exposed to a view of a lovely landscape. 

Without question, our landscapes offer us numerous health benefits; therefore, it is vital that we return the favor by ensuring that our outdoor scenery is kept in optimal health.  Homeowners have a lot invested both financially and emotionally in their landscapes. I have never met someone who wants to plant a “temporary tree” with hopes it will only survive a few years then die. When we plant a tree, we envision a time in the future when it provides cooling shade where we can relax below its lovely broad branches and dense foliage. And yet many frustrated home owners have discovered that having a healthy landscape requires more than plunking a couple of plants in the ground and adding water.

Trees and shrubs, like people, can suffer stress. Stress can cause plants to succumb unnecessarily to disease and insect infestation, which can weaken or kill the plants we love.  Much of the environmental stress that plants suffer is unavoidable: late frosts and exceptionally hot summers, for example. However, much of the stress that plants suffer is caused by inadequate care in the form of proper irrigation and maintenance practices.  Home irrigation systems that seem “worry free” to homeowners are often not designed or scheduled appropriately to provide landscape plants, especially trees, with enough water: and water is the single most important resource for plants in our dry climate. Improper pruning practices can also have devastating effects on trees and shrubs and can render them weakened and vulnerable to disease and insects. Sadly, many “professional” landscape management companies have little if any knowledge of how to correctly prune plants for optimal health.

Most landscape plants in our area are not native and are, therefore, growing in an “unnatural” environment. Consequently, they are absolutely dependent upon us and the resources we provide to survive and thrive. If you have general questions regarding how best to care for your landscape the local University Cooperative Extension office has a wealth of information available. If you have specific concerns about plants in your own yard, such as a sick tree or a tree that doesn’t seem to grow properly, you can also seek the advice of a Horticultural Consultant or Certified Arborist who specializes in consulting and disease diagnosis. An Arborist is educated in tree physiology that is based upon scientific research, unlike a lawn and landscape professional whose knowledge is often based on tradition or best guesses. A consulting Arborist can advise you on how to properly care for your landscape plants, so you can reap the benefits of a healthy landscape for years to come. 

References

1. Harris, R.W. 1983  Arboriculture: Care of Trees, Shrubs, and Vines in the Landscape Prentice-Hall New Jersey 
2. Kahn et al. 2005 Journal of Agriculture and Social Sciences 1: 69-70
3. Ulrich, R.S., 1985. The Role of Trees in Well Being and Health. Proc. 4th Urban Forestry Conf., pp 15-9 St. Louis, Missouri 

For more info, contact Holly Bromley or Leslie Lyles certified arborist and horticulturist at (775) 849-1215

By Craig Witt and Mark O’Farrell, Soil Council |

What is the difference between mulch and compost?

Repeat this simple mantra over and over:  Healthy plants need healthy soil.

A healthy soil is teaming with millions of living organisms that all contribute to the health of your plants. To get through a brutal high desert winter, your soil microbes need two things, food and shelter.

In simple terms, compost is food for your soil and mulch provides shelter. Compost is generally much finer than what you would use for mulch. It is organic matter which has been broken down by fungi and bacteria. It is usually very dark brown and smells slightly sweet, like healthy rich topsoil. If it smells sour, putrid or you detect a hint of ammonia, it means that it has not been composted properly. Avoid it like the plague.

To be a good food source, compost is applied directly to the soil where the microbes can get to it. It can be incorporated into the top few inches of soil and covered with mulch.

Mulch serves as shelter for your soil, so it always goes on the surface, after a good meal of compost. It protects your soil from extreme temperatures in both summer and winter. It also prevents erosion from wind, rain and poorly adjusted sprinkler heads.

Should I use that pretty colored rock for mulch in my landscape?

That depends on what the goal of mulching is in your particular landscape. For large open areas where your goal is low maintenance, rock is certainly a reasonable alternative. It also works well for some high traffic areas or overflow parking.

For any areas where you have plants, however, you would want to use an organic mulch like walk-on bark or wood mulch. Organic mulches serve the primary purpose of suppressing weeds as well as, or better, than rock mulches. In addition, they provide two major benefits to your landscape that rock mulches do not.

Organic mulches are usually less dense, so they provide a greater R-value in insulating your soil from temperature extremes. Organic mulches also improve your soil over time as they are broken down by microbes, contributing valuable organic matter to the soil.

An interesting fact about redwood bark mulches or “Gorilla hair” mulches is to understand that redwood resists decomposition in the soil. That’s the reason that many fence posts and containers are made out of redwood. They last longer before decomposing. Sometimes this can be an advantage, but it is a disadvantage for increasing your soil’s fertility. Many mulches, if they are not composted, can have phytotoxic characteristics. That means they actually inhibit plant growth. Two good examples are Walnut and

Eucalyptus. It’s best to know where your mulch comes from and what it is made of. For more detailed information on mulches, see www.attra.org.

For more info, contact Craig Witt and Mark O’Farrell at Full Circle Compost at (775) 267-5305 or craig@fullcirclecompost.com or mark@fullcirclecompost.com.

By Craig Witt and Mark O’Farrell, Soil Council |

Q: What is a “triple mix”?

A:  Triple mix is a very common term given to a soil blend that is comprised of three parts. The most important question to find out is exactly what are the three parts of a “triple mix”.

It is interesting to hear the response from your local landscape supplier when you ask them what is in their “triple mix”. Some of the most comical responses are: (1) Oh, it’s the three best parts of a good soil.  (2) Ah Gee, let me see, I think it’s one part soil, one part compost, and one part manure. (3) I don’t know. (4) You better ask at the office. (5) What would you like it to be?

As one can see, a “triple mix” is a relatively vague description. It can be three parts of anything.

Ideally, a “triple mix” should be one part Sand, one part Garden Soil, and one part Compost. The overall performance of such a combination will be determined by the quality of each individual ingredient.

The Sand should come from a proven source that does not contain high levels of sodium and has good physical characteristics that do not lead to compaction. Golf Course sand is a good example of a desirable sand. Concrete sand is often times not desirable.

Garden Soil, sometimes called top soil, should come with some evidence that the supplier has had a soil analysis done to make sure that the nutrients are balanced and that there are not any toxic levels of minerals such as Boron or Sodium.

The Compost is often times the most important ingredient added to a triple mix. It is very important that the compost comes from a reputable supplier that can supply you with the recipe of what is in the compost and a written record of the composting process.

Ultimately the quality of any soil blend is determined by how well it supports the growth of plants.

A good supplier should have plants growing in their product.

Q:  What is “Mushroom Compost”?

A:  “Mushroom Compost” is actually not compost at all. It is spent mushroom substrate. Mushroom substrate is the growth media used to grow different varieties of mushrooms. The choice of mushroom species  that a mushroom grower grows is dependent on the growth media available.

Mushroom production is completely different from growing green plants. Mushrooms do not contain chlorophyll           and therefore depend on other material for their food.

Mushroom growers often times use compost turners to mix their mushroom substrate, however, if they were to truly compost the substrate, it would no longer grow mushrooms.

Spent mushroom substrate is best used as an ingredient in a good compost recipe.

In short, mushroom compost can often times cause more harm than good.

For more info, contact Craig Witt and Mark O’Farrell at Full Circle Compost at

(775) 267-5305 or craig@fullcirclecompost.com or mark@fullcirclecompost.com.

Start Composting.

By Mark O’Farrell |

Fall is in the air! And of course that means leaves are on the ground and swirling in the air. People are scrambling to gather them up. Leaf blowers are howling and trucks are rumbling to the landfill and back. This great whirlwind of seasonal activity, just to keep nature from doing her job.

If you want to do something healthy for your body, your mind, your landscape and Mother Earth, stop the intervention. Get out there and help the world’s natural carbon cycle function. Reduce pollution, sequester carbon and get some exercise building a compost pile. It will make you feel good!

There isn’t a more productive way to break a sweat on a chilly fall morning than to gather up all of that landscape debris and turn it into a tonic for your plants. But don’t waste all of that energy by throwing it in a pile and forgetting about it.

Making a successful compost pile is easy if you understand and apply a few basic concepts. If you want to get a little more scientific about it, check out the following excellent reference: ATTRA.ORG. Otherwise, put on a sweater, get out there, and follow these basic rules!

When you build a compost pile, you are really building an ecosystem for microorganisms. You want to pay attention to four basic principles to ensure that you build a beneficial environment for the organisms that you want and discourage the pests and unwanted organisms that might otherwise invade your pile.

Recipe. The first step in successful composting is to start with the right ingredients. It’s a lot like baking a cake. If you don’t start with the right ingredients, nothing you do will ever make the cake come out right.

Your recipe can include a wide range of organic materials, but you want to make sure that the carbon to nitrogen ratio is approximately 30:1. That means that for every part nitrogen rich material, such as fresh grass clippings, weeds, manure and kitchen scraps, you include approximately three times that in dry, brown fibrous material such as leaves, dried plant material or chipped or ground woody material.

You can make your pile as big as you can manage, but you should have enough material to make it at least a cubic yard, or 3 feet square and three feet high. Mix the materials together and wet them down when you start the pile.

Aeration.

Ahh,yes. Another opportunity to get some of that much needed off-season exercise. In order for your community of decomposers in the pile to have the oxygen they need, you will have to turn the pile at least two or three times per season. More often, if you want to speed the composting process. Your microorganisms are getting a lot of exercise, too. They need oxygen.

Moisture Management.

Like any living community pile needs a reliable supply of water. It depends on thermophyllic organisms, or organisms that produce heat which makes adequate water essential The pile should be kept moist, but not too wet, or it will become anaerobic and ruin your compost. When you turn your pile add enough moisture to make it about as wet as a wrung out sponge. If it is too dry, you will see a grayish- white, ash-like residue that means your microorganisms have run out of water.

Humification.

Finally, your pile needs to rest. After active decomposition, your compost should be dark brown and crumbly, with a minimum of recognizable fiber that needs to be screened out. Letting the pile sit for a few weeks will allow it to stabilize, so that it is the best soil amendment available for your lawn and garden.

If you don’t have enough material for your own compost pile, you can always build community by working with your neighbors to pool materials for a community pile. If all else fails, you can take the easy route and find a local composting operation who takes green waste for a fee, like Full Circle Compost in Minden, NV. You may not derive all of the health benefits of working your own pile, but you will still be breaking the bad habit of disrupting the carbon cycle.

For more info contact Full Circle Compost at 775-267-5305.

Written by Mark Farrell |

“Essentially, all life depends upon the soil….There can be no life without soil, and no soil without life: they have evolved together.”

- Charles Kellogg, USDA Yearbook of Agriculture, 1938

One of the most common complaints in Northern Nevada is about plants dying over the winter. Unfortunately, most gardeners don’t think about feeding or tending to their landscape until spring. If you don’t want to lose valuable plants, you need to make sure your landscape is healthy before the frost is on the pumpkin.

Healthy plants are the results of healthy soil. And healthy soil, in turn, is a result of millions of healthy microorganisms building and maintaining their own intricate ecosystem, as well as digesting nutrients and feeding organisms that dwell above the surface.

According to soil scientists, in just a spoonful of soil, there are more microorganisms than the number of all the people on earth. And they serve many diverse functions in the intricate process of recycling all of the other life forms on earth.

For an interesting introduction to soil biology and its importance to a healthy human environment, check out the Soil Biology Primer, published by the Soil and Water Conservation Society at www.SWCS.org. It explains, in simple terms with lots of illustrations, the diverse functions of various organisms, and their importance in maintaining the soil food web. It also explains how soil microbes convert organic matter and mineral nutrients into the ideal food for plants.

So, how do you keeps millions of organisms alive through a Northern Nevada winter?  It’s not as exhausting as it sounds. Like any living organism, awake or asleep, your soil needs four basic things: air, water, food and shelter. In other words, they need a healthy environment. Applying compost and mulch to your soil helps to ensure this healthy environment, and the window of opportunity is open from now until winter sets in and the ground begins to freeze.

In simple terms, compost provides food for your soil, and mulch supplies shelter. Compost is organic matter that is decomposed to the point that is a rich brown crumbly product that no longer resembles the material it was made from. Mulches, on the other hand are usually course wood fiber, bark chips or some other material which is lighter and usually resistant to breaking down.  The two work together to help regulate adequate air and water in the soil. They also help to keep the soil in place, resisting wind and water erosion.

Unfortunately, some commercial composts that you buy are really just partially decomposed mulch.  Any supplier of quality compost should be able to provide you with a lab analysis showing the level of nutrients available from their compost. and be able to supplement the compost with additional minerals if your soil analysis indicates a very low levels of a particular nutrient.

A good compost contains a balance of nutrients that actually feed microbes in the soil, in addition to improving the chemical and physical properties of the soil. As microbial populations grow, they provide nutrients to plants and actually manage soil particles to enhance the living environment for themselves and the plants in a process called soil aggregation.

In addition to feeding the soil, compost also improves the soil texture and structure, so that water and air can move more freely through the soil. It increases both the drainage and the water retention of soil. This is important in the winter, as many plants can drown from water-logged soil… or die form the desiccating effect of cold and wind. Proper soil moisture keeps plants healthy during winter dormancy.

Mulch is any material that is applied to the surface of the soil to provide cover and protect the soil and plant roots. It does so by insulating the soil from temperature extremes, decreasing evaporation, and protecting the surface from erosion. Applying organic mulch in the fall is invaluable in protecting your plant roots, as well as providing an environment for your soil microbes, as well as earthworms and beneficial insects, to thrive,

Purdue University has an excellent publication on the benefits of earthworms and how to encourage them that can be found online at www.ces.purdue.edu.   Soil microbes will continue to work throughout the winter with this additional protection, although at a much slower pace that in warmer months. The earlier you feed your soil and tuck it in with a blanket of mulch, the more summer warmth the soil will retain

In our Northern Nevada, September and October are the time to take action. A generous application of compost and mulch in the fall will insure that when it is time to wake up and start growing in the spring, your plants will already be nourished and ready to take off.

For more info call Full Circle Compost at 775-267-5305

1.  Admit That Your Lawn Is Dependent, that the mowing and the chemical use have become unmanageable.

2.  Be Willing To Make Amends To Your Soil.

• Test the soil. Ask your county extension office for help. To locate your local office, search on the USDA Cooperative State Research, Education and Extension Service website: www.CREES.USDA.gov.  Click on “Local Extension Office.”

• Amend it with natural minerals, nutrients and/or compost. Look for those labeled as conforming to standards of the National Organic Program (NOP) or Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI). For information on soil testing and nutrient amendments, contact the Natural Resources Conservation Service:  www.NRCS.USDA.gov/feature/backyard/nutmgt.html.

3.  Choose Plants Other Than Grass.

• Plant native flowers, shrubs and trees. The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center has a searchable database of native plants by region: http://Wildflower.UTexas.edu/plants.

• Choose plant species that attract birds and bees for pollination and insect control.

• Avoid exotic and invasive species, which crowd out native species and wreak havoc on ecosystems. The U.S. Department of Agriculture lists noxious and invasive species by state: http://Plants.USDA.gov/java/noxiousDriver#state.

4. Mow Less.

• Let your grass grow longer. Ideal length for most grasses is 2.5 to 3.5 inches.

• Keep mower blades sharp; dull mower blades tear grass blades and cause browning.

• Use a push mower or manual tools instead of gas-powered to reduce emissions. Electric or rechargeable mowers are another option.

5.  Make An Inventory Of Natural Weed Controls.

• Pull weeds by hand.

• Purchase weed suppressants made with corn gluten meal, a natural, effective herbicide.

• Instead of vinyl or plastic landscape “fabric” or weed barriers, look for biodegradable versions made from recycled paper or natural fibers.

6.  Be Willing To Use Natural Pest Controls.

• Raise chickens (if your local code allows) to gobble up bugs.

• Introduce beneficial insects. You can usually purchase ladybugs, praying mantises and other insects through local garden centers.

• Use a soap-and-water spray. A few drops of dish soap, diluted in water and sprayed on plants, will keep mites and small bugs under control.

• For more information on alternative pest control methods, check the Audubon Guide to Home Pesticides website: www.Audubon.org/bird/pesticides.

7.  Invite Nature In.

• Install a birdbath or birdhouse. Birds are great pollinators and natural predators of unwanted bugs.

• Build a bat house. They love to eat mosquitoes.

(For instructions see article on page 48)

8. Waste Not.

• Leave nature’s fertilizer, cut grass, on the lawn; it does not cause thatch.

• Compost the clippings (see Step 9).

• Capture water in a rain barrel. (See “Raindrops Keep Falling,” March/Apr 2007, www.NaturalHomeMagazine.com.)

9.  Come To Understand That Compost Will Restore Your Lawn.

• Build a compost bin. Visit www.NaturalHomeMagazine.com for instructions on how to make your own compost bin.

• Fruit and vegetable scraps, grass clippings, wood ashes and even shredded paper can become food for the soil. For tips on how to compost, check www.EPA.gov/compost.

• Try vermiculture (that means worms) for even better results. You’ll find how-to suggestions on the www.Earth911.org website. Click on “Organics & Composting,” then select “Vermiculture Worm Compost.”

10.  Water Less.

• Mulch! A natural barrier of shredded leaves, straw or bark keeps moisture in.

• Water in the early morning to avoid the rapid evaporation that happens in the heat of the day.

• Water less frequently but deeply. Set a coffee can under the sprinkler; when there’s 1 inch of water in the can, the water has soaked the surrounding soil 6 to 8 inches deep.

• Instead of sprinklers, use a soaker hose that waters plants at the roots to minimize runoff and evaporation.

• Plant a rain garden to capture runoff water. (See “Singing in the Runoff,” March/April 2007,

www.NaturalHomeMagazine.com or visit www.RainKC.com.)

• Xeriscape by choosing drought-tolerant plant species.

11. Become Entirely Ready To Increase Your Tolerance.

• A few weeds and bugs are OK. Think of it as inviting nature to your yard!

• Be patient. Change takes time—but the results will last.

12. Spread The News of your personal awakening to earth-friendly, organic lawn care.

• Let the kids play, the dogs run and the neighbors admire.

Excerpted from Natural Home magazine, living wisely, living well .  Read the full story at  www.naturalhomemagazine.com or call 800-234-3368 to subscribe. Copyright 2007 Ogden Publications

1. Plenty of Daylight

South-facing windows provide natural daylight, and the sun’s rays help keep rooms warm in winter. If you want more light, add insulated windows to the home’s south side, unless you live in the desert or an extremely hot climate, where more windows could present heat problems. Shading windows in summer protects against overheating.

2. Air Circulation

Indoor air quality is an essential component of any healthy home. Choose cleaning products without toxic chemicals and paints and wood finishes that are natural and contain few or no volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Use a whole-house, integrated air-filtration system with a HEPA (high-efficiency particulate air) filter. Use low-toxic adhesives and plastic-free grout when installing tile. Make sure the kitchen range hood vents outside.

3. Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs

[See editor’s note]

Light bulbs get a big workout. If you can do one thing to be more energy efficient, replace old incandescents with compact fluorescent bulbs (CFLs). Installing one CFL saves $15 annually, according to the Rocky Mountain Institute, a nonprofit energy research group. Multiply that by the number of lights in your home, and add up the savings. Some people also prefer light emitting diodes (LEDs), which can be more expensive but use very little energy.

4. Energy-conserving Building Envelope

Most houses leak air. Holes and gaps in the wall, roof, foundation, doors and windows allow air loss; winter heat loss and summer heat gain. Tight construction, good insulation and high-performance windows are key. “Weather stripping and caulking in existing homes can reduce your energy bill 10 to 25%,” said David Johnston, president of What’s Working, a green building consultancy. “Energy prices will escalate over the next few years; insulation is the least expensive insurance policy you can buy.”

5. Indoor-outdoor Connection

An inviting patio can extend your living space to the outdoors. During summer, create shades with a retractable awning, an umbrella or trees. “Look at the gifts and challenges that nature gives you in your own microclimate,” said Carol Venolia, architect and Natural Home columnist. “Working with nature is simple, but we lost touch with it when we became dependent on fossil fuel to heat and cool our homes.”

6. Water Conservation

Low-flow (LF) plumbing fixtures save substantial amounts of water and money. LF toilets use only 1.6 gpf (gallons of water/flush), whereas older models average 5 gpf. LF showerheads use 2.5 gpm (gallons/minute) or less; conventional models use 5 to 8 gpm. LF faucet aerators cut water usage to as low as 1 gallon/minute.

7. Sustainable Landscaping

Rain gardens, ponds, birdbaths and streams are good for the environment, friendly to the animal world, and soothing and relaxing for us. Native and drought-resistant plants require less water and maintenance. Organic gardening, which uses natural fertilizers and pest-control techniques and eschews harsh chemicals, is friendly to both the earth and people.

8. Energy-efficient Appliances

Energy- and water-saving appliances let you save money on the electric bill and help the environment. Check out Energy Star labels on kitchen, laundry and bath appliances and fixtures. The Department of Energy will soon update energy-efficiency standards for all appliances, so watch for more efficient products to come onto the market.

9. Renewable Energy

Solar, wind, water and geothermal are all renewable forms of energy, but installing solar panels or a wind generator may not be attainable immediately if you have budget constraints. A great right-now solution is to buy wind-generated or other renewable power from your local utility; it may be as simple as marking a little box on your energy bill to sign up. In many areas, it’s not much more expensive than conventional energy. Also take a look at solar water heaters, which can pay for themselves quickly by reducing energy bills. For information on financial incentives for installing renewable-energy systems, check the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency Web site at www.DSIREusa.org.

10. Location, Location, Location

Living near shopping, recreation and workplace reduces car dependence. “It’s hard to justify a home in the middle of nowhere as a green home,” said Brian Dunbar, executive director of the Institute for the Built Environment at Colorado State University. It matters if you have to get in your car and drive everywhere.

Excerpted from Natural Home, a national magazine that provides practical ideas, inspiring examples and expert opinions about healthy, ecologically sound, beautiful homes. To read more articles from Natural Home magazine, please visit www.NaturalHomeMagazine.com or call 800-340-5846 to subscribe. Copyright 2007 by Ogden Publications Inc.

[Editor’s note:  We are learning that compact fluorescent lights contain a small amount of mercury, which, when the lights break or are disposed of, is released into the atmosphere as mercury vapor. Special recycling or disposal services appear to be needed. We will follow up with additional reliable information about this as it becomes available.]

Attracting the Right Bugs & Critters

By Delia Montgomery |

Undesirable insects are one of the greatest fears of potential organic gardeners. Beating the bugs may become as challenging as weeding effectively. Some of us gardening novices are guilty of bug war obsession. Just like drugs, you can slide into addiction. Pesticide addiction, that is. With no such rehab in site, watch out! Remember, your mission is to go organic.

Speaking of basics, the next essential step for organic progress is mulching. You read everywhere about the importance of mulch. Healthy plants attract good bugs that work with the cycle of botanical life. Strong plants rarely become infested with the wrong kind of bugs. Mulch for healthy plants, nurture the good bugs, and control weeds at the same time.

If you find it necessary to attack aphids or spider mites, try the water hose first. Reach the water spray to the underside of the leaves and you will control most of those pests. The next weapon is soap spray. Even Japanese beetles don’t like soap spray. Be sure to hit the bug directly and it will kill. For an almost-free formula, mix 1 tablespoon of dishwashing detergent with a half gallon of preferably distilled water into a clean spray bottle. There you have some weapons.

Another easy way to manage bugs is by supporting bats in your area. Bats eat vast numbers of insect pests, but like bluebirds and purple martins, their numbers are declining for lack of places to live. Give them a home. You can buy a bat house with luring instructions from most any garden supplier. Or look around to see if nature is providing a warm and moist habitat that bats crave. Maybe a tree hollow, cave or shed.

Some of our bat species have declined due to pesticide poisoning, so the organic route is imperative to take advantage of this no-hassle technique. There are plenty of fears about bats, but they are myths. They don’t want to nest in human hair and they rarely bite anyone. Fact is, the more you learn about bug-eating bats, the more you like them. I find spotting their dinner sport at dusk truly entertaining. They’re fast eaters!

One of my favorite Spring season chores is to mail order ladybugs and praying mantis. They’re a treat to watch and help keep your garden clear of bad bugs. Find ladybug homes along bat house suppliers. Discover helpful tips about keeping these good guys around. Organic gardening is your first clue.

From patio to farm gardening, inspiration from literature and illustrations provide readily available support. With interest steadily growing, advertising for organic lawn maintenance and landscapers will be reaching for your business. It’s become a new, trendy market niche for old-time labor.

A fashionable, earth-friendly garden consists of healthy plants and creative homes for your local bugs and critters. The best way to achieve that is to go organic. Support bats, ladybugs, butterflies and birds with a natural habitat to make friends and forget the pesticide war. You’ll receive thanks in many unspoken ways.

For more information see www.chevychaser.com. Delia Montgomery is an environmental design columnist, consultant and personal shopper for homes, bodies and gardens.

Written by Nikki Florio of T.R.E.E. |

Sustainable living is the practice of being attentive to, and taking action in regard to, our lifestyles and product choices. It is the understanding that these choices will have both an immediate, and long-term, affect on the environment and our bodies.
This article will focus on six facets of Green Building and Sustainable Practices including:
1. An Introduction to Green Building
2. Sustainable Communities
3. The Four R’s of Building Green
4. The Importance of Commissioning
5. Green Materials
6. Eco- Friendly Landscaping
One of the greatest impacts we as humans have on the environment today, are the buildings in which we reside, relax and work.
1. An Intro to Green Building
Green or Sustainable Building is the term used to describe environmentally responsible, building and construction, products, services and practices for both commercial and home structures.
Why Build Green?
According to the Center for Sustainable Development, buildings consume 40 percent of the world’s total energy, 25 percent of its wood harvest and 16 percent of its water. Additionally, buildings emit 38 percent of the world’s carbon dioxide and 46 percent of sulfur dioxide emissions (Connecticut fund for the Environment).
Green Buildings reduce environmental impact by:
-Planning site-placement for sustainable energy utilization and low environmental impact
-Maximizing energy efficient design
-Utilizing sustainable and recycled materials
-Reducing construction/demolition/remodel waste
-Incorporating energy efficient technologies
-Creating positive land and resource (integrated) systems
-Designing buildings that are long-standing and low-maintenance
Green buildings have better indoor air and light quality leading to overall increased comfort and productivity, and greater overall health.
How to Obtain Green Building Certification:
There are several regional, national and international green building certifiers. Some of the more renown includes the U. S. green Building Council, Build It Green and Green Globes TM.
The classification of Leader in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) ratings, by the USCBC, is a system which covers a variety of projects in which points are awarded based on eight key features; architecture and design, building materials, energy use, facility management, interiors, land use, waste management, and water use.
It should be noted that doing a green remodel or build for yourself, requires no certification.
Cost Benefits of Building Green:
Green buildings have a far greater return on investment via cost savings from reduced energy, water, and waste; lower operations and maintenance costs; and enhanced occupant productivity and health.
Green Resources:
Magazines:
• Eco-Structure Magazine
• Mother Earth News
• Natural Home Magazine
Websites:
• Usgbc.org – Natl. Green Building Certification & Resource Site
• Builditgreen.org – California Green Building Network
• Buildinggreen.com – Green Building News and Resources
2. Sustainable Communities
Sustainable Communities are the new saviors of the environment, community health and economic prosperity. The designation and promotion of these beneficial areas are the keystones of progressive cities everywhere.
Smart Growth:
Smart Growth integrates mixed-use development and economic viability focusing on:
• Neighborhood design
• Easing of traffic congestion
• Integration of cultures
• Job creation
• Community service promotion
• Crime reduction
• Overall production of a healthier environment and economy
Resources:
Books:
• The Natural Step for Communities: How Cities and Towns can Change to Sustainable Practices by Sarah James and Torbjorn Lahti http://www.newsociety.com
• Smart Growth Tool Kit: Community Profiles and Case Studies to Advance Smart Growth Practices by David O’Neill
• Making Smart Growth Work by Douglas Porter
Websites:
• GreenCommunitiesonling.org: Grants/Loans/Conferences/Resources
• Sustainable.org: Sustainable Communities Networking
• Smartgrowth.org: Smart Growth Infrastructure, Policies, Resources and News
3. The Four R’s of Construction and Remodels
Building Green whether for personal or commercial projects requires commitment.
Whether building new or remodeling, utilizing green principals means understanding the 4 R’s of Green:
• Research • Reduce • Reuse • Recycle
Research:
Perhaps the most important aspect of green development, research of sustainable professionals, services and materials, can help us achieve the optimum results; reducing stress, while saving us both time and money.
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle:
Understanding the Green R’s concept will help us in our quest to reach sustainability, contributing to personal, environmental and economic well-being.
The 4R’s will effectively save money via time and materials management, reuse of materials (when remodeling), recycling materials, working with a contractors exchange and donating unneeded materials to services such as Habitat for Humanity.
Resources:
• Sunrise Nevada.org
• Nevadamax.org
• Ases.org (American Solar Energy Society)
4. The Importance of Commissioning
Commissioning is important for owners because it consists of the analysis of lifecycle costs associated building projects, which include new construction, retrofits, renovations, repairs or modifications. According to Stephen Witek of SEED Engineering of Tahoe, commissioning is a systematic approach to assuring design concepts are whole and worth their investment.
Commissioners help clients understand the short and long-term ramifications of each project by calculating project budgets using current and projected future costs, financing charges, immediate and future energy savings, and estimated project paybacks/returns.
Commissioning services are available for a variety of engineered building systems, equipment and components. These include mechanical systems, solar and renewable energy engineering, building envelope/partitioning systems, electrical systems, information technology systems and life-safety systems.
Resources:
• Stephen Witek, S.E.E.D Engineering/stephenwitek@seedtahoe.com (530) 277-6435
• Bill Folkerts, Engineering Economics Inc/ billf@eeiengineers.com (858) 688-1246
• CA green commissioning guidelines: www.green.ca.gov/CxToolkit/default.htm
5. Materials
When we enter into a building, we are introduced into a unique environment created from a variety of separate materials. EPA studies determine that pollutant levels indoors can be two to 100 times higher than outdoors. Buildings constructed using green materials have superior indoor air quality leading to greater comfort, health and quality of life.
Green Building/finish Materials:
Structure:
The structure of the building can be created using sustainable, non-toxic materials. These include recycled/sustainably harvested woods, straw bales, SIP’s (Structured Insulated Pannels), ICF’s (Insulated Concrete Forms), steel and other products that can be cycled cradle-to-cradle.
Fencing and Decking:
Recycling existing products for decks and fences are always the “greenest” choice, however, some of these are not always available, or of usable quality.
Utilizing sustainably harvested, recycled or reclaimed wood products are among the best choices for “greening” a new deck.
Other choices for decks and fencing/walls include brick, block or stone choices that have been made/quarried in a sustainable manner.
Composite Decks and Railing:
Companies like Trex, Yakima Decking and Geo Deck supply composite decking. Composite decking utilizes waste and recycled materials, helping to reduce environmental impact while creating quality products.
Indoor Materials:
Paints: Several companies now carry low/non-VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) paints, stains and clay and earth plasters.
Flooring: Flooring for the green home hosts a variety of options including natural/wool carpeting, cork, bamboo, reclaimed hardwoods, recycled rubber flooring, fly-ash concrete, and more.
Cabinets, shelves, and dressers: Products can easily be made from recycled/ previously used products ranging from wood to metals and even heavy cloth. Recycled and reclaimed wood, cork, paperstone, kirei-sorghum, and eco-friendly composite glass/concrete/plastic (vetrazzo) all make beautiful, sustainable cabinets and countertops.
Resources:
Structural:
• ICF’s: amvic-pacific.com
• SIP’s: betterbuilding.com
• Strawbales: strawbuilding.org
Deck/Railing:
• Ecotimber.com
• Trex.com
Paints:
• Kelly Brothers Painting (530)581-0806
• Sherwin-Williams.com GreenSure products
• Americanpridepaint.com
• Americanclay.com
• Flooring/cabinets
• Interfaceinc.com
• Greenfloors.com
• Ecowoodscalifornia.com
• Vetrazzo.com
• Livinggreen.com/greenproducts
• Contractors Exchange
• Nevadamax.org
• Calmax.org and http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/CalMAX//
6. Sustainable Landscapes
Rich, diverse, eco-friendly landscapes, whether in mountainous regions or deserts, are becoming the enterprise of choice for residents of homes and businesses everywhere.
The ecological, social and economic aspects associated with sustainable landscaping include enhanced scenery, increased biodiversity, generation of fewer pollutants, less run-off, structural protection, and less demands on time, energy, and money than conventional landscapes.
Sustainable Design:
Combinations of function and feasibility in sustainable landscapes, incorporate property, environmental impact, solar availability, soil type, water reclaimation/delivery, utilization of native/non-invasive plant species, protection from harsh elements, exposure to positive elements, economic feasibility and follow up.
Xeriscaping:
Xeriscaping refers to landscapes that do not require little or not supplemental irrigation. This practice makes use of plants that are best suited for the area and employs techniques such as natural plant placement, hydrozoning (grouping plants with similar watering needs), and effective mulch use and smart watering. Its benefits include less maintenance, little or no mowing lower water bills, rain-fall advantages, greater chance of drought survival, and increased habitat for butterflies, bees and natural fauna.
Resources:
• LJM Design Group: Residential/Commercial Design www.ljmdesigngroup.com. (530)587-6003
• www.buildingconcerns.com
• www.sigba.org
Organic Compost:
• Full Circle Compost www.fullcirclecompost (775) 267-5305
Eco-friendly landscaping and gardening helps the environment, the economy and personal health.
Plant well and wisely!